Tips for forging axe: practice on mild steel vs 1045

[SmithyMike97]

I'm new to this forum but I've been forging basic items for almost a year now. I'm ready to try my first axe head using the slit-and-drift method for the eye. I've got 1.5 inch round 1045 for the actual axe, but I'm unsure about practicing.

My main question, should I practice the eye-forging process on mild steel before using 1045?

I worry that practicing on mild steel will teach bad habits since it moves differently than 1045. Conversely, I don't want to waste good tool steel on a completely botched first attempt.

What's the consensus? Practice on mild, or just dive in with the 1045? Any quick tips on managing heat while drifting 1045 would be great.

 

[Alan]

Start with some easy stuff to get the hang of it, it's cheaper and easier to handle. Just remember, 1045 steel is slower and needs careful heat. If you're drifting, keep the heat above 1600°F, work quickly, and reheat often, so it doesn't crack!

 

[Gaspar_Gambler]

Practice on mild, but treat it like it’s 1045. Keep it hotter than you think you need to and stop hitting once it starts to cool. You’ll get muscle memory for the hammering pattern without wasting your good stock. When you move to 1045, work in brighter orange heat and be patient with the drift. It’s tougher but cleaner once you find the right temp.

 

[forge|fellow]

It's also a good idea to preheat your drift tool. This helps lessen thermal shock and keeps the hole cleaner. A press can be very useful for controlling distortion when slitting if you have one.

 

[FPDoc]

I'm new to this forum but I've been forging basic items for almost a year now. I'm ready to try my first axe head using the slit-and-drift method for the eye. I've got 1.5 inch round 1045 for the actual axe, but I'm unsure about practicing.

My main question, should I practice the eye-forging process on mild steel before using 1045?

I worry that practicing on mild steel will teach bad habits since it moves differently than 1045. Conversely, I don't want to waste good tool steel on a completely botched first attempt.

What's the consensus? Practice on mild, or just dive in with the 1045? Any quick tips on managing heat while drifting 1045 would be great.

You could do like some, at least, originals and forge it from mild or even wrought iron (folded is easiest) and learn to weld a small piece of higher carbon steel (piece of an old file for example) into the edge of the blade. While it is still reasonably thick. It works well and you get a very good and yet period piece and you can save the more expensive steel for sometime in the near future. Just my $0.02 and 50+yrs of smithing experience.. Have lots of fun though, either way you decide and let us see how it turns out.